What to see in Wormwood Scrubs

In the final ‘local site to visit’ feature we are going to the east of the borough and into neighbouring Hammersmith & Fulham, though between 1965 until1994 the western most part of the Scrubs as it’s affectionately known by locals, was in Ealing. It’s the largest open space in the borough and is approaching 80 hectares in extent. The western boundary follows an underground culverted arm of the Stamford Brook.

Historically the site was wooded and known as Wormholt Wood with grazing through Saxon times and the Middle Ages. Originally the site was much larger but was cut in half by the development of the Paddington branch of the Grand Union Canal in 1801 and there were further losses as the railway from Paddington was developed in the late 1830s. In my lifetime additional losses were incurred as more railway sidings followed with the destruction of the allotments.The lines are now used by the Elizabeth line as well as services to the west country and Wales, while HS2 will also utilise them in the coming years.

To the south of the open space is the famous Wormwood Scrubs prison and Hammersmith Hospital. As a schoolboy most of the site was open playing fields. Under Ken Livingstone’s term on the GLC, quite a few areas were planted up with native shrubs and trees, partly to compensate for the loss of Scrubs Wood to the railway.

In the western half of the Scrubs is a matrix of woodland, scrub and rough grassland which was designated in 2002 as a Local Nature Reserve. Some of the planted saplings were rescued from the doomed Scrubs Wood. Species planted included Oak, Ash, sallows, Field Maple, Dog Rose, Hazel and Hawthorn. This has matured well and every autumn there is management to control brambles, etc. Widespread wildflowers include Hogweed, Ox-eye Daisies, Common Knapweed, Wild Carrot and Yarrow.

In the northern section is a small area known as “Chats Paddock” which was constructed to help create some habitat for Common Lizards which were re-located from nearby areas which would disappear with the railway expansion. At one time the Scrubs probably held the largest population of Common Lizards in London and certainly the nearest to central London. They are still hanging on in smaller numbers, the biggest threat being succession and the loss of good basking spots. A few Garden Lupins and Broad-leaved Everlasting Pea persist here, remnants of the former allotments. The Scrubs also supports a small population of Slow Worms, Common Toads and Common Frogs despite the lack of any permanent water body for the amphibians to breed.

From a wildlife perspective the Scrubs is well-known amongst the capital’s birding community. Over a 100 bird species can be expected to be recorded annually and it has an enviable history of scarcities and rarities. Perhaps most notable are three separate records of Richard’s Pipit. Other scarcities seen include Quail, Nightingale, Ring Ouzel, Red-backed Shrike,Ortolan and Little Bunting. More regular passage birds would include Whinchats, Wheatears and less often Yellow Wagtail (flyovers mainly) and Redstart. One of the latter did over-winter many years back and was the first in the country todo so.

The Scrubs previously held the closest breeding population of Meadow Pipits to the city, but like everywhere else in the capital they are now just passage birds with small numbers over-wintering. Stonechats too, are regular on passage and sometimes linger in the winter. Redwings and less frequently Fieldfares can be found in the colder months. The scrub habitats support several breeding warblers including Blackcap, Whitethroat, Chiffchaff and occasionally Lesser Whitethroat. Kestrels and Sparrowhawks are the most regularly encountered raptors here.

The sports turf on the eastern part of the Scrubs often supports many gulls outside the breeding season with Mediterranean Gull recorded several times. There is also a substantial population (up to 100 birds at times) of Carrion Crows. A dawn or dusk visit to the Scrubs in winter reveals a large noisy spectacle as a huge Ring-necked Parakeet roost is present with over 5,000 birds recorded on a survey.

Most frequently recorded mammals are the ubiquitous Grey Squirrel in the wooded areas. Foxes are frequent while Field Voles are most likely seen in the talons of a Kestrel! There have been a couple of Badger records and historically at least Weasel, though its current status is unclear. Both Common and Soprano Pipistrelles have been recorded here and these may well forage over the nearby canal too. The much declining Hedgehog is also recorded with plenty of suitable habitat.

The habitat mosaic supports a wide variety of insects of which butterflies are the best recorded. All three widespread golden skippers occur as well as typical grassland species such as Small Heath, Meadow Brown and Marbled White. As with some other west London sites Brown Hairstreaks have colonised recently which would have seemed unthinkable a decade ago. This year one observer counted 11 individuals on a walk. Another notable insect here is the Stag Beetle which needs a good supply of old timber to complete its life cycle.

Access is very easy by public transport with East Acton tube station on the Central Line being just a few minutes’ walk away. Though there are no facilities on the Scrubs there is a café and a couple of food shops between the station and the Scrubs.

Neil Anderson